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Hugo succeeds in the ascent of Nanga Parbat

Article published in podio.bo

Hugo Ayaviri became the first Bolivian climber to summit three mountains of the "14 eight-thousanders" (peaks over 8,000 meters high in the world) when he reached the summit of Nanga Parbat, in Pakistan, at 8,125 m. He did it early this Monday (01.00 Bolivian time) without a fixed rope or oxygen. He did it in the early hours of Monday morning (01.00 Bolivian time) without a fixed rope or oxygen.

The two previous peaks he conquered were Broad Peak (between China and Pakistan, 8,047 m) and K2 (China/Pakistan, 8,611). Both were also done without oxygen. Ayaviri, who has 25 years of experience in this extreme sport, traveled to the Asian country on May 31.

His expedition began exactly one week ago, on Monday 19. His ascent was step by step, as he first had to reach the base camp and then go through the remaining three camps to make the final climb.

The voyage

It took him five days to reach base camp (located at 4,200 m), where he arrived on Friday.

On Saturday he arrived at Camp 2 (6,100) and on Sunday he was at Camp 3 (6,800).

That same day, but in the evening hours in Pakistan (13.00 in Bolivia), he began the final ascent.

When he reached 7,600 "there was no longer a fixed rope and he decided to climb the last meters without oxygen. He arrived at one o'clock in the morning and he did it with a complicated climate because there was a lot of wind, there was no case to take a flag and the photographs he took were with the camera of his cell phone", said the French Anne Bialek from La Paz after contacting Ayaviri.

Ayaviri did not climb alone, as he made the summit with Norwegian climber Kristin Harila, another experienced mountaineer who also seeks the "14 eight-thousanders".

"It was a very hard climb, it cost her a lot and it was terrible," added Bialek.

Which are the '14 eight-thousanders'?

Only a few mountaineers in the world have achieved the feat of reaching the summit of the 14 mountains on the planet that are over 8,000 meters high.

The other 11 that are part of this select group and which Ayaviri intends to summit are: Everest (China and Nepal 8,848), Kanchenjunga (India/Nepal, 8,586), Lhotse (China/Nepal, 8,516), Makalu (China/Nepal, 8. 463), Cho Oyu (China/Nepal, 8,201), Dhaulagiri (Nepal, 8,167), Manaslu (Nepal, 8,163), Annapurna (Nepal, 8,091), Gasherbrum I (China/Pakistan, 8,068), Gasherbrum II (China/Pakistan, 8,035) and Shisha Pangma (China, 8,027).

Original Article: https://podio.bo/ayaviri-hace-cumbre-en-la-montana-nanga-parbat-de-pakistan/2023/06/26/